Yamunotri and Landslides

Narrated by Palak Jain

I thought we are going for a pilgrimage tour as “Yamunotri & Gangotri” always echoed with the Char Dham (of Uttrakhand) - “Gangotri, Yamunotri, Kedarnath & Badrinath.” But it was a different ball game altogether. We were lost in the wild, the love for forest, mountains, trek and riding made our journey a mix of thrill, some suspense and adventure.

 

The Destination.

Three bikes and four of us started our ride in the early October, to be precise on the long weekend of second October (2017). The time is perfect as the sky is clear and the weather is supportive. We will also get the chance to visit the temples of these great originating rivers - “Ganga and Yamuna”. After Diwali the main temple is closed for four months and these Goddesses are taken to a lower seat till the end of April and early May (till Akshay Tritiya). So we had a great chance to visit the main temple shrine during October.

So we packed our bags with all the essentials and started our ride in the morning. Our plan was to cover as much as possible on day 01. We had planned to cover Yamunotri first, which is about 180 kms from Dehradun. Riding on hills is not easy and 180 kms was a big task ahead of us. We were unaware of the road conditions and decided, would stop as per our strength at the end of the day.

With high on energies we didn’t stop in between and kept riding. The roads were beautiful and the lofty peaks ahead of us were taking all our attention. On the way we crossed Nanda ki chowki, Nainbagh, Yamuna pool.

Our first stop was at a place called Naini, we had our lunch at Hotel Rautela around 4:00 pm there. This place is almost 10 kms before Barkot, which is one of the biggest junction before Yamunotri. The food did wonders, as we were starving from morning and it was a good break for us. After relaxing for 45 mins we did start again. Crossed Barkot, some police officials stopped us just for security reasons. After which we continued, covered the next ten kilometers and halted at Kharadi for the night stay.

Kharadi is 25 kms before Yamunotri and this was the closest village where we could find some accommodation. We were all tired and wanted to relax for the evening. Our stay was absolutely local but the best part is, it was close to the following river - Yamuna. The sight was captivating and the surrounding valleys were worth riding so far. After dinner, we decided to sleep early as we had to trek till the temple and then continue riding to Gangotri on day 02.

As planned, we got up early even before the sun came and started our bikes. It took some time to start the bikes as it was too cold outside. We covered the next ten kilometers crossed Palighat and saw many vehicles parked in queue on the other side. We were suspicious but continued as we had two wheelers. Asked a few locals and they said that there was a landslide ahead and we cannot move forward from here. We couldn’t believe this and continued till the place we could. Then what???

The Hurdle

The security stopped us, and said we can’t go ahead of this spot as the roads were not clear due to the landslide. We were disappointed and didn't  know what to do. It was a tough call for us and was dangerous too. We asked what’s the alternative to reach Yamunotri, as going back was not our choice.

So what’s next ~ we had parked our bikes and started discussing with the locals. They said, we had to trek down five kilometers, on the opposite side of the road and then take a local jeep ride to reach our spot crossing Janki chatti and Hanuman chatti. A sigh of relief  on our faces. This was the extra five which we had to take, that was never in our plan. Very smartly one of us said it’s just five we can do it. All of us agreed and started trekking.

We crossed the pristine and remote areas, it was sticking to my eyes. We were not alone but many pilgrims who had come from so far (like us) were doing the same. As this is a once in a lifetime event for many.

Walk to Yamunotri

The trek was not easy, and I was losing my breath, stopping every now and then, but my friends did encouraged to complete the trek. The roads were rough with the rocks fallen from the opposite mountain. I was scared to see that but realised we are safe. It took us almost two hours to reach the place from where we could find the local jeep.

We had to wait for our chance to get the seat on the jeep as there were many people and the jeeps were limited. It took us fifteen minutes to reach the spot from where we had to actually trek for Yamunotri. It was 9 in the morning and we had to return as quickly as possible, since its a long way to reach Gangotri too…

We halted for a while and took a sip of tea. It kept me warm and comfortable from the cold winds. Soon we started again and decided that, we have to complete this trek in the next two hours. With so much efforts we managed to reach the temple. It took us more than two hours to cover one way. Of course we were tired as we had covered ten kms by walk from morning.

Nevertheless, the beauty and the hard work was worth the efforts to reach this spot. It was an achievement for me and I feel proud about it. The fresh breeze gave me immense peace, I wanted to spend some time here. The rapturous views of the Himalayas brought a smile on our faces. We entered the temple together and the main Deity of the temple was made up of Black marble, as beautiful as it could be. We saw the afternoon aarti and sat for some time to take the blessings of Hindu Godess Yamunaji.

Yamunotri

The hot springs was another highlight here. People were taking a dip as it is believed that these hot water will wash off the sins. After relaxing for some time I was feeling pure, calm  and enlightened. I was in my own zone of happiness.

Time was precious and we wanted to head back, it took us almost next three hours to reach Kharadi. It was 4 in the evening, and there was no point traveling to Gangotri, we were too late for it. So then, we had some fun and all of us went to the backside of our hotel where we saw the flowing river. We wanted to take a dip in the cold water. But who would jump first???

Yamuna River

Damn, it was so cold, but all of us tried more than once and then spent almost an hour there. The cold water took away all our pain temporarily and ended our day on a happy note.

Day 3, we had to return to Dehradun and kept Gangotri for our next trail. But, we did cover Paonta Sahib and Mussoorie on our way.

Dholavira amidst Jwalamukhi

Dholavira

       (Exploring the First Trace of Human Existence in India)

Imagine you standing on a soil, where 4500 years ago there were people like you and me have left their mark of existence. Look out at the white desert, close your eyes and feel the air blowing through you.

Such a thought can drag any history enthusiast to serenity of going back to the ages filled with so much mystery.

Bhuj - Dholavira 220km says the blue board, the scorching sun gleaming over us to go for it, the bike roars let’s roll and my heart screamed out DHOLAVIRA!

There we go with bikes filled with its fuel, bags stuffed with our fuel (water bottles and emergency kit) and our hearts filled with zeal to travel. Travel till our hearts stop.

Racing our way towards that day’s destiny was filled with mixed emotions for it being our last bike journey of the trip. Throughout the journey I was ranting, ‘Gujarat is indeed a dry state’. At least the Kutch part of Gujarat is! Before you read any further about my experience of Dholavira, I’d like to give you some basic facts about the place.

Dholavira, an archaeological site at khadir bet of Kutch district. Khadir Bet an Island in the Kutch desert wildlife sanctuary and Great Rann of Kutch resides the most prominent archaeological site in India .The site contains ruins belonging to the Indus valley civilization.  

I suppose the minimal factual information about the place above would be efficient enough for reading any further.

For me the journey to Dholavira didn’t just confine to a long bike ride, it was a journey I longed for. A journey not just confined to reaching the destination shown on our navigators of android, but a journey towards discovering oneself which no android navigators could help me find out.

I could see an empty road ending nowhere, with either sides of the road one gets to experience solidarity where you get a time to think. 

Cruising across the Rann of Kutch Lake. Dried

Think about yourself, for yourself to yourself. The jerks or the speed breakers mattered nothing to my thoughts that were taking its course.

All the Throats dried up, minds exhausted and body almost giving up; doubting our decision for Dholavira was creeping into our already swamped mind.

‘Dholavira-Fossil Park 20km!!!’ shouts my friend from the other bike, almost jumping out from her seat.

Heaving a sigh of relief... And hoping to find some water, we rode our way.

There we entered the village with typical rural houses and old men with white dhoti and pagdi, sitting under the tree, looking at us curiously.

At least that is what I thought!

 A beautiful feeling creeps into me, all I could sense was my dried lips widening itself forming a curve on my face and my mind sensing tranquillity, though simultaneously searching for water and wanting to get off the bike to stretch and rest our limbs.

There were sign boards leading us to the site through the lanes. Entered we through the gates of the site, my friend and I got down the bike stretching ourselves and waiting for our team, whom I chose to ignore to mention about, for I knew I would mention when the time was right. We, a team of 5 travelling our way for a purpose of each concerned wanting to find the lost or discover something new.

‘I found the water cooler! Get your bottles out’ howled Maddy.

After 4 long hours of journey in a scorching afternoon, thirsty and hunger stricken we reach Dholavira.  Drained and almost half dead, we sit at the entrance of the Archaeological museum gulping some of glucose water and almost fighting for which flavour to mix for the next round, entered we to a place decently maintained. The excavated artefacts can be seen in the onsite museum- some of them are quite amazing. It took us about 40mins to look around and have a word with the guard, who was mentioning about not having a decent connectivity which is causing the limitation of tourist visiting this place. But I would be blaming it on the awareness levels about this place which is causing the limitation. I mean how many of us know about Dholavira? 

Inspection at Dholavira Site

When spoken about Indus valley civilization, it is more about the Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro which is now with our neighbour (Pakistan). Dholavira and Lothal (both located in the present state of Gujarat) are the two prominent places in our country is seen the traces of one of the earliest civilization of the world.  Did we really know about them? How well are we maintaining them?

Stomach was growling for it to get fed, and there came Mr. Jamal who was kind enough to take to his place for lunch. 

Mouth Watering Saapaad

His house beautifully built with a Thatch roof and hospitable people living in it and serving us a great meal. Mr. Jamal, a guide was overwhelmed once he got to know we were the students from IITTM, and was showing a great interest to help us out in knowing more about the place. It was our time to enter the main site of excavations done, in which Mr. Jamal also had put in some efforts to help out for the history to unravel.

Jamal Bhai's Patience

A mind boggling excavated site, has a very surreal feel when one thinks of walking around a place which is 4500 yrs old and was inhabited by folks for at least 1500 yrs. Like anything under the universe which has a life cycle of development, growth to decline, this site is said to have gone through seven stages of development, peaking around stage 3 and 4, followed by decay and completely decline by stage 7. The city having a very solid fortifications with the exterior wall being several metres thick, and is divided into the citadel, middle town and lower town. There are numerous of unsolved questions which the guide had tried helping us navigate them. The philosophy of water preservation and the fact that this place has the world's largest ancient step well, speaks volumes about the life and ecology of the place in the past.

Mr. Jamal had been kind enough to put up with us and our questions. He had in return just asked us for only one favour, a favour asking us to write a letter from the ministry of tourism to the archaeological department. According to him, a concerned letter from the ministry would put the archaeological dept into pressure for giving a required attention to the site. There was rush of emotions, empathising the guide for the site was like his own son. A son who was helped in getting excavated by Jamal, who saw the developments of excavation and now witnessing the dearth of maintenance.

Promising to try and give my 100% in helping out this man, and mentally noting down what all should be mentioned in the official letter, we come out of the site.

Packed ourselves for our way back to Bhuj - the main city, we leave the site of excavated with too many things to ponder on. The oncoming 4-6 hours journey had loads of things in it store which is now sealed into the box of what happens in the journey stays in the journey. A Journey of crossing the white desert, crossing the speed, crossing the time, and crossing our hearts we moved forward.

Visit Dholavira to see White Rann (even in September-October)

A journey now when I look back had so much to learn, learn to realise that momentary rush of emotions and empathy makes one a very impulsive being. Which makes me wonder now as I sit down to write, did I really go to a place of discovery to discover myself?

Did I? 

Another unsolved question! 

Flight to Chang La

Cold September, 7 o’clock in the morning. This was my third visit to Pangong Tso. I stayed at Spangmik where the crowd was thin and the lake was three yards away. After a smooth ride from Leh yesterday (no streams, no snow, less traffic), I had to cross Chang La once again to reach back to Leh. Chang La, whose altitude is higher than Khardung La, was waiting for me, with snow covered roads. Yea, it snowed yesterday night.

A Typical Day at Changla after snow. Army clears the snow pretty fast.

Cold weather had reduced my appetite and I did not feel like eating before the ride. I checked fuel in my bike and it was little less than 4 liters. I have to cover 120 kilometers to reach a petrol pump.

Obstacles even before I kick started. Half hour had passed. I wanted to stay ahead of traffic. Army trucks eat up petrol. And there is always a long procession of them.

Half past seven. Riding Gears on. Temperature was around 5 degrees. Thunderbird 350 was my beast.

I rode. The first 50kms was a cake walk. Zero traffic and well laid roads with less curves. But now, I come face to face with Changla. Even Khardung La has pretty decent roads. But, Chang La? Never.

And with snow, this high mountain pass poses a greater threat to me. Chang La towers at 5,360 metres (I like to quote altitude in metres, coz one can compare it with Everest’s 8848m altitude)

I have not stopped my beast till yet, and I don’t want to. Not till I reach Karu Petrol Pump.

Stones, snow, muddy roads have started to test me already. Suddenly my bike stopped. God knows what happened to it. And behind me was an oil tanker. Oh dear, I have stopped at an inclined road with a disadvantage, a huge rock in front of me. Luckily, the road is a little wide. Wide enough for the oil tanker to drive past me with no harm done.

Phew! A close one. Okay, now Self-start… self-staaaart… It always fails you when you need it most.

Kick-start and off I rode again. I drove past Changla without stopping. I had already paid a visit to Changla Baba yesterday and I got plenty of pictures at Changla from my previous rides. So, why bother?

Chang La photo from one of my earlier rides.

The snow has started melting from mountains and the streams are back on! And, the oncoming traffic is on as well! Time to manoeuvre through them patiently. But I am through with Changla and good roads greeted me again. Oncoming Riders, full of enthusiasm, riding to Pangong Tso greeted me with a friendly sign.

Hold on… a tight turn. Oncoming Qualis. Damn, he is not slowing down. I am sure we will cross each other at the bend. But, I see no space for me to ride. I slowed down, but I couldn't bring it below 25kmph. And he is also riding at full force. We met. He covered the entire road, threw me off balance and I am in dirt. I am sure that I am going to fall down. The entire thing happened within a matter of 3-4 seconds. I am still off balance. 

For once, I want the bike to fall down. Tired from riding for god knows how long and with no stop-overs, I wanted to let go. I left control to my bike's freewill, but with hands still on the bar.

Bike bumped on a rock, shot in the air, and landed back in the asphalt and resumed cruising.

What just happened?? I still couldn’t believe my eyes. I ought to have fractured an arm or a leg. But not a scratch. No wonder Royal Enfield has fan following. No other bike could’ve done that feat.

I don’t know whom to thank. I kissed the bike thank-you and resumed riding. I still didn’t stop till Serthi (Sakthi is the corrupted version by BRO). Infact, I was stopped at Serthi, by 4 tourists from Kashmir who were driving a Maruti 800 (old model). They wanted to visit Pangong Tso.

I said, not on a Maruti 800 bro. Especially not at full capacity.

I don’t know what happened to them either. I wish they hired bikes from Leh!

The One photo I took during the Ride

I quickly took a photo for I knew I will jot this experience down one day.

Stop-over was Two minutes max. I resumed riding with my bike already running on reserve-fuel.

Now, straight roads. I sped fast from Karu tri-junction to the petrol pump.

I made it!! And in record time. I reached Karu by 10:30am. 3 hours - 120kms in Ladakh. I hope it is some kind of a record.

Karu Petrol Pump. I have never been so excited to see a petrol pump. I still have that petrol pump owner’s contact number. 

Who knows when I might need it again. 

Snow colliding X-Mas gift

We all stay in the same city; time never let us to explore together but this time we paddled a lot to make things happen.
Here comes the output of a frustrated corporate professional, who plans everyday and fails everyday.

Finally the day has come, Last minute Mission Hatkoti, Himachal Pradesh on bike in the mid winter was fixed ..

I never understood y always last moment plan clicks & proper studied plan flopz.

Days were counting, plan was on...
Mission One was to convince a Christian friend for Xmas trip on wheels..

After many attempts, she was convinced.

Yes, now the team is up with 6 on wheels, one scientist Mr. Madrasi Maddy was waiting for ride in Dehradoon.

Shopping was way on n off, tickets were issued... Everyday plan was set. Woke up, office, shopping, dinner, YouTube n sleep.

More research..

Strategies were planned to escape from cold wind and sneezing...

After week with loads of preparation, bags were packed, ready to get lost on wheels.

Excitement dropped us to Kashmiri gate @ 11:30.

Bus to Dehradoon...!

Early morning 4:30 step on Dehradoon road was mind blowing .. dark veil was emptying our energy, dogs were greeting.. scientist appeared..! Everyone was happy to see mad ass after long gap..

Fresh up break was very short.. Disappointed but happy, as Scientist is very punctual never lets us enjoy the break.

Finally heard the best ever music of keys, bikes were calling us. Riding Gears in place... first selfie n ride started.

Mountains calling, curves seducing our ride, Avengers / RE Himalaya /Vikrant were more aggressive and sometime misbehaving with breaks.. everything was going well until an unfortunate icy skid damaged one of our rider n Xmas gift..

Still the enthu n energy was on high, regained the confidence wid selfy.. again the curves ,hairpin bends, in-between off road were making our ride more enjoyable.

That tea break was most needed after 90 km ride. Yes, here comes the pack of cigs out and a lighter to boost it as both were waiting for my touch. 

I was just analyzing the happiness again the Scientist spoiled everything and forced me to ride ... We rode n rode n rode till the sun set and dark scares ..Planned destination was far away but bikes were tired , hands started shivering.. stopped at TUINI, searched hotel, we put up by river's earshot. Dropped all stuff then went for hunting snacks but the restaurant served so fast (irony) that we realized it's better to Skip the snacks plan and order the dinner .. food was amazing .. everyone stepped back towards room.

Rajai's were calling us, we went on to hug, cold weather silently fell in love with us.. river hubbub was switching our sleep mode on. .. morning alarm appeal convinced our sleep and assembled the day plan ..

Woke up , fresh up then helmet trig out our riding mode on. Again on wheels, reached destination, winning series of selfies..

back on seats. bike is full on fire .. rode back to Dehradoon with puncture in between , stop over at photo-shoot point, some freaky poses with high on passion attitude.. everything comes to end.. back to Doon safely, feeling proud for moments spent on bike.