Ride .. Theory and Practical

For lazy ass lyk me ride with theme might remain as thought n Theory ....but this time the Theory is about to lead wid Practical practices..yes we had theme for our ride named as Republic day Ride to Border .. this time ride is planned for 1300km in 48 hours*riding hours.. this numeric itself is so happening that GenX might go high with no stuffing required to roll on..

We set team of 5. One new comer, Baniya, Who is backseater plus motion photographer.

Here we thought of launching our page before proceeding to ride so dat we can expose our experience and make others to pick for it.

We did launch our Facebook page and invited our notorious friends to keep track on our ride with likes.

For this we worked technically hard and yes felt great because theoretically planning itinerary was looking so cool.

With busy schedule we missed to book our bus to Dehradoon.. and we reached Dehradoon 2 hrs late. Later caught all keys from mad ass scientist. Pulled all bikes out from garage, wore helmets, knee pad, mask and all set to ride.

We juz crossed 10km and here comes the uninvited fog to ride with us, which accompanied us till the end of the ride.

Target for the day Ride was surathgarh*512km , later changed to Faizilka*463km. So from starting it was clear that we should reach before 7 pm. We rode n rode n rode, never flashed on speedometer, no count on km covered. We just aimed to reach. We altered the stay point 3 times.

We failed coz of a major Bike issue and fog slow pacing our ride all the more, trailing 70km eating dust and night ride fear.

At last we stopped at Abohar*442km and started finding hotel. We always we hunt the best accommodation, the tradition followed and succeeded in coursing Mission hotel hunt.

All riders were completely tortured by fog, gang was full on pain. Had dinner tossed pain killer, lights off, went on to dream next day Ride escaping from fog.

Morning, Again on our avenger cruise 220s took exit from abohar and proceeded to hindumalkot and next to fazilka.. Fog became Pie in the sky. Same weather, normal temperature was 11 degree, riding temp 6-7 degrees..

1st stop was to Hindumalkot 38 km off road from abohar. The border. Proceeded parallel to border. The border and barbed wires were hazy coz of the fog. The later on we proceeded to sadqi, sulemanqi road, NH-7 Faizilka.

We witnessed farmers entry to border fields with permitted papers.

Continued Riding alongside border and reached Amritsar. Heaven on border.

Golden temple, Langar and night halt at Amritsar. Morning Jalianwala bagh. Theoretically, we were planning to visit hindumalkot, fazilka, ferozpur and Amritsar coupled with visit to border in each of the places while practically, we were able to witness border at Hindumalkot alone..After the epic ride, on the third day, we started to ride back to Doon on AH-1 longest route of Asian Highway network.

Raced like crazy dogs on the 8 lane highway, with fingers freezing and wet balls.

Finally reached home at 8pm on third day. Completed 1200 km. In fog, covering borders, mountain roads, fertile plains, blissful monument and innumerable memories.

It is true when they say ride designs its own map.

Cast Iron fights Rann of Kutch

Second time to Rann of Kutch. A place no one regrets visiting multiple times. 

Silhouette - Toothless and Rann. Perfect Combo

Only this time, I planned to ride all the way from Chennai. That is 2500 kms one way.

Roads in India are not brilliant. So, this is not doable in a day. I planned to do it in 3!

This time I am riding with a Chaddi Buddy. 

I rode my buddy’s Desert Storm till Pune and planned to ride a Cast Iron RE loaned by an old friend for the rest of the journey.

At the start of the Ride

I have ridden all models made by RE with UC Engine. Never a Cast Iron Model.

Always wanted to feel the legendary thump!!

1200 kms to Rann. Doable with Cast Iron? In a day? I am willing to take my chances.

Only issue was that the Motorcycle was not serviced properly.

We made it to Bhuj with just minor hiccups in Cast Iron. Draining of Engine Oil, above all.

Luckily, I was able to find mechanics all along the way who fixed minor issues that arose.

We proceeded to Narayan Sarovar and Guvar/Guhar, as a part of my record to reach all corners of country in four months.

Westernmost Village

Next day was to the White Rann. Every day during the ride, there were minor issues with the Cast Iron and maintaining it by riding carefully under control was the biggest challenge of them all. Meanwhile my chaddi buddy was cruising in full force in his beast “Toothless” (His Desert Storm). Damn you bugger.

We made it to White Rann. Peacefully

Ride on the White Rann

Although there is heavy rush in December coz of Rann Utsav, there is a secret road which leads right into the white rann. You can ride your bike there. And that’s what we did!

I never wanted to take chances in the wilderness coz of my Cast Iron. So, we returned the same day back to Bhuj. Twas New Year 2016.

New Year’s Day, We started riding back to Pune. Suddenly my bike stopped. Again, near a mechanic shop. I don’t know whether to call this ride fortunate or not.

After diagnosis, the results were….. Piston Damaged!

There is no way to fix this issue. I made up my mind and sent this Cast Iron to Pune by truck and rode the remainder of the journey till Pune as a pillion in Toothless.

So much for the Thump....

Puncture, Nutcase and Losar

Puncture, Nutcase and Losar

After venturing out deep into Apple covered Kinnaur Valleys, the ride took us through Spiti. The change of landscape is akin to the one I had experienced from Ladakh to Lahaul. Although, unlike Ladakh, Spiti is still unexplored by tourists and was quaint in its own way.

 

Apple covered Kinnaur

In this ride, a Nutcase, an old friend from my hamlet, accompanied me. Racing through, we had experienced various varieties of Apples as we rode past districts of Kullu, Shimla, Kinnaur and finally landing in Spiti. We had already covered approximately 400 kms over the past three days.

I specifically wanted to ride Electra through these terrains, as it is my first choice while renting bikes.  Little did I know that rented bikes in Manali are worse for wear.

Yesterday night, we had stayed in Ki Gompa, to experience morning prayers the next day. Blissful experience as we sat and prayed along with the Buddhist monks early in the morning.

Tingmo at Ki Gompa

Although we enjoyed the experience, we had lost three hours and we had to ride to reach Manali the same day crossing the giant Kunzom La after visiting Chandratal as well. Ambitious, but doable.

Enroute, we found a traveler tempo stuck in slush with tourists stranded since morning. The Nutcase was eager to help, but it is going to eat out on our precious time.

Well, we jumped in. With some tricks, we were able to get the vehicle out of the mud. We resumed riding again. Since, we lost precious time and we were losing day light, we started racing though the mountains. My intuition told me something bad is about to happen.

It was 12pm. Just few kilometers left to reach Losar, a name that is going to haunt me for the rest of my life. Something was weird in Nutcase’s back tire. Damn, a puncture. We had to pull over immediately. Lucky for us, we had a spare tube and the puncture kit. No No No.. I will rephrase it.

4000 meters above sea level, we were trying to fix a flat tire with rudimentary tools and a broken bicycle pump. After replacing the tube, it took us half hour more to fill air in it with that stupid pump.

 

Nutcase and Electra

Just when we thought we had done it, the tube lost air again. To our utter dismay, the culprit was still stuck to the tire. A Nail. A big one. Just when all is lost, we met two Russian riders, who lent their spare tube to us. Rule Number One. In bike rides, say yes to any help lent when in distress situation. Although the tube did not fit, we took it. Just in case.

 

Losar - The name that haunts

The next option was to ride to Losar (4kms from current position) and hunt for help. I took my bike and rode fast to Losar only to find that the puncture guy is not in town. But he will reach Losar tonight. I rode back to where I left the Nutcase and his bike. Now we had to ride the punctured bike till Losar. It ain’t difficult. I have done it before. Being lightweight is always an advantage.

Nutcase rode my bike and I took his’. We reached Losar. We left the bikes in shade and went straight to the puncture guy’s house. We are going to wait outside his house till he returns.

Half past three. We were checking our wallets for money. We had enough petrol in the tank. But we had 200 rupees in hand. There are no ATMs till Manali. Anyways, 200 is more than enough to fix a puncture. Or so we thought.

                                     

Outside the puncture guy's house

We started hearing stories from the puncture guy’s wife on what an alcoholic he is. She further adds that he seldom comes home. Now, what are we doing waiting outside this guy’s house. We looked for liquor shops in the village. Lucky for us, there is just one. We waited there for some time. No trace of him though.

Quarter past five. It is getting dark now. We have to stay the night. Apparently, this guy works in GREF, BRO’s malignant brother. We were walking around the village enquiring about when the GREF truck will reach. We reached a police check post who asked us to wait with them, as the truck will have to cross the check post before entering the village. We befriended the constable on duty who worked out a plan to help us.

There it was! The GREF Truck! Finally.

We blocked the route and peeked into the truck. Constable hollered. “Puncture Wala hai kya”.

“Haan”.

Our eyes lit up. Although we could not get a good look at him, we were convinced that our sorrows are over. Truck sped past and stopped at the GREF office. We rushed to find the guy.

Alas, he has magically vanished. We enquired everyone in the truck. Now they say they have not seen him. Very convenient for alcoholics to skip help and get drunk.

We lost the guy. He didn’t go to his house as well. Nor he was in the liquor shop. It seems that the mountains have magically vaporized him.

Decision has been made. We are to stop the first pick-up truck early in the morning, load the bike and ride the other bike back to Manali.

With 200 rupees, there is not going to be a comfortable night stay. We had our blankets and riding jackets. We slept on the street in Losar in -5ºC weather conditions.

We made it to Manali the next day.

The truck that took the vehicle

Fin.

Yamunotri and Landslides

Narrated by Palak Jain

I thought we are going for a pilgrimage tour as “Yamunotri & Gangotri” always echoed with the Char Dham (of Uttrakhand) - “Gangotri, Yamunotri, Kedarnath & Badrinath.” But it was a different ball game altogether. We were lost in the wild, the love for forest, mountains, trek and riding made our journey a mix of thrill, some suspense and adventure.

 

The Destination.

Three bikes and four of us started our ride in the early October, to be precise on the long weekend of second October (2017). The time is perfect as the sky is clear and the weather is supportive. We will also get the chance to visit the temples of these great originating rivers - “Ganga and Yamuna”. After Diwali the main temple is closed for four months and these Goddesses are taken to a lower seat till the end of April and early May (till Akshay Tritiya). So we had a great chance to visit the main temple shrine during October.

So we packed our bags with all the essentials and started our ride in the morning. Our plan was to cover as much as possible on day 01. We had planned to cover Yamunotri first, which is about 180 kms from Dehradun. Riding on hills is not easy and 180 kms was a big task ahead of us. We were unaware of the road conditions and decided, would stop as per our strength at the end of the day.

With high on energies we didn’t stop in between and kept riding. The roads were beautiful and the lofty peaks ahead of us were taking all our attention. On the way we crossed Nanda ki chowki, Nainbagh, Yamuna pool.

Our first stop was at a place called Naini, we had our lunch at Hotel Rautela around 4:00 pm there. This place is almost 10 kms before Barkot, which is one of the biggest junction before Yamunotri. The food did wonders, as we were starving from morning and it was a good break for us. After relaxing for 45 mins we did start again. Crossed Barkot, some police officials stopped us just for security reasons. After which we continued, covered the next ten kilometers and halted at Kharadi for the night stay.

Kharadi is 25 kms before Yamunotri and this was the closest village where we could find some accommodation. We were all tired and wanted to relax for the evening. Our stay was absolutely local but the best part is, it was close to the following river - Yamuna. The sight was captivating and the surrounding valleys were worth riding so far. After dinner, we decided to sleep early as we had to trek till the temple and then continue riding to Gangotri on day 02.

As planned, we got up early even before the sun came and started our bikes. It took some time to start the bikes as it was too cold outside. We covered the next ten kilometers crossed Palighat and saw many vehicles parked in queue on the other side. We were suspicious but continued as we had two wheelers. Asked a few locals and they said that there was a landslide ahead and we cannot move forward from here. We couldn’t believe this and continued till the place we could. Then what???

The Hurdle

The security stopped us, and said we can’t go ahead of this spot as the roads were not clear due to the landslide. We were disappointed and didn't  know what to do. It was a tough call for us and was dangerous too. We asked what’s the alternative to reach Yamunotri, as going back was not our choice.

So what’s next ~ we had parked our bikes and started discussing with the locals. They said, we had to trek down five kilometers, on the opposite side of the road and then take a local jeep ride to reach our spot crossing Janki chatti and Hanuman chatti. A sigh of relief  on our faces. This was the extra five which we had to take, that was never in our plan. Very smartly one of us said it’s just five we can do it. All of us agreed and started trekking.

We crossed the pristine and remote areas, it was sticking to my eyes. We were not alone but many pilgrims who had come from so far (like us) were doing the same. As this is a once in a lifetime event for many.

Walk to Yamunotri

The trek was not easy, and I was losing my breath, stopping every now and then, but my friends did encouraged to complete the trek. The roads were rough with the rocks fallen from the opposite mountain. I was scared to see that but realised we are safe. It took us almost two hours to reach the place from where we could find the local jeep.

We had to wait for our chance to get the seat on the jeep as there were many people and the jeeps were limited. It took us fifteen minutes to reach the spot from where we had to actually trek for Yamunotri. It was 9 in the morning and we had to return as quickly as possible, since its a long way to reach Gangotri too…

We halted for a while and took a sip of tea. It kept me warm and comfortable from the cold winds. Soon we started again and decided that, we have to complete this trek in the next two hours. With so much efforts we managed to reach the temple. It took us more than two hours to cover one way. Of course we were tired as we had covered ten kms by walk from morning.

Nevertheless, the beauty and the hard work was worth the efforts to reach this spot. It was an achievement for me and I feel proud about it. The fresh breeze gave me immense peace, I wanted to spend some time here. The rapturous views of the Himalayas brought a smile on our faces. We entered the temple together and the main Deity of the temple was made up of Black marble, as beautiful as it could be. We saw the afternoon aarti and sat for some time to take the blessings of Hindu Godess Yamunaji.

Yamunotri

The hot springs was another highlight here. People were taking a dip as it is believed that these hot water will wash off the sins. After relaxing for some time I was feeling pure, calm  and enlightened. I was in my own zone of happiness.

Time was precious and we wanted to head back, it took us almost next three hours to reach Kharadi. It was 4 in the evening, and there was no point traveling to Gangotri, we were too late for it. So then, we had some fun and all of us went to the backside of our hotel where we saw the flowing river. We wanted to take a dip in the cold water. But who would jump first???

Yamuna River

Damn, it was so cold, but all of us tried more than once and then spent almost an hour there. The cold water took away all our pain temporarily and ended our day on a happy note.

Day 3, we had to return to Dehradun and kept Gangotri for our next trail. But, we did cover Paonta Sahib and Mussoorie on our way.

Dholavira amidst Jwalamukhi

Dholavira

       (Exploring the First Trace of Human Existence in India)

Imagine you standing on a soil, where 4500 years ago there were people like you and me have left their mark of existence. Look out at the white desert, close your eyes and feel the air blowing through you.

Such a thought can drag any history enthusiast to serenity of going back to the ages filled with so much mystery.

Bhuj - Dholavira 220km says the blue board, the scorching sun gleaming over us to go for it, the bike roars let’s roll and my heart screamed out DHOLAVIRA!

There we go with bikes filled with its fuel, bags stuffed with our fuel (water bottles and emergency kit) and our hearts filled with zeal to travel. Travel till our hearts stop.

Racing our way towards that day’s destiny was filled with mixed emotions for it being our last bike journey of the trip. Throughout the journey I was ranting, ‘Gujarat is indeed a dry state’. At least the Kutch part of Gujarat is! Before you read any further about my experience of Dholavira, I’d like to give you some basic facts about the place.

Dholavira, an archaeological site at khadir bet of Kutch district. Khadir Bet an Island in the Kutch desert wildlife sanctuary and Great Rann of Kutch resides the most prominent archaeological site in India .The site contains ruins belonging to the Indus valley civilization.  

I suppose the minimal factual information about the place above would be efficient enough for reading any further.

For me the journey to Dholavira didn’t just confine to a long bike ride, it was a journey I longed for. A journey not just confined to reaching the destination shown on our navigators of android, but a journey towards discovering oneself which no android navigators could help me find out.

I could see an empty road ending nowhere, with either sides of the road one gets to experience solidarity where you get a time to think. 

Cruising across the Rann of Kutch Lake. Dried

Think about yourself, for yourself to yourself. The jerks or the speed breakers mattered nothing to my thoughts that were taking its course.

All the Throats dried up, minds exhausted and body almost giving up; doubting our decision for Dholavira was creeping into our already swamped mind.

‘Dholavira-Fossil Park 20km!!!’ shouts my friend from the other bike, almost jumping out from her seat.

Heaving a sigh of relief... And hoping to find some water, we rode our way.

There we entered the village with typical rural houses and old men with white dhoti and pagdi, sitting under the tree, looking at us curiously.

At least that is what I thought!

 A beautiful feeling creeps into me, all I could sense was my dried lips widening itself forming a curve on my face and my mind sensing tranquillity, though simultaneously searching for water and wanting to get off the bike to stretch and rest our limbs.

There were sign boards leading us to the site through the lanes. Entered we through the gates of the site, my friend and I got down the bike stretching ourselves and waiting for our team, whom I chose to ignore to mention about, for I knew I would mention when the time was right. We, a team of 5 travelling our way for a purpose of each concerned wanting to find the lost or discover something new.

‘I found the water cooler! Get your bottles out’ howled Maddy.

After 4 long hours of journey in a scorching afternoon, thirsty and hunger stricken we reach Dholavira.  Drained and almost half dead, we sit at the entrance of the Archaeological museum gulping some of glucose water and almost fighting for which flavour to mix for the next round, entered we to a place decently maintained. The excavated artefacts can be seen in the onsite museum- some of them are quite amazing. It took us about 40mins to look around and have a word with the guard, who was mentioning about not having a decent connectivity which is causing the limitation of tourist visiting this place. But I would be blaming it on the awareness levels about this place which is causing the limitation. I mean how many of us know about Dholavira? 

Inspection at Dholavira Site

When spoken about Indus valley civilization, it is more about the Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro which is now with our neighbour (Pakistan). Dholavira and Lothal (both located in the present state of Gujarat) are the two prominent places in our country is seen the traces of one of the earliest civilization of the world.  Did we really know about them? How well are we maintaining them?

Stomach was growling for it to get fed, and there came Mr. Jamal who was kind enough to take to his place for lunch. 

Mouth Watering Saapaad

His house beautifully built with a Thatch roof and hospitable people living in it and serving us a great meal. Mr. Jamal, a guide was overwhelmed once he got to know we were the students from IITTM, and was showing a great interest to help us out in knowing more about the place. It was our time to enter the main site of excavations done, in which Mr. Jamal also had put in some efforts to help out for the history to unravel.

Jamal Bhai's Patience

A mind boggling excavated site, has a very surreal feel when one thinks of walking around a place which is 4500 yrs old and was inhabited by folks for at least 1500 yrs. Like anything under the universe which has a life cycle of development, growth to decline, this site is said to have gone through seven stages of development, peaking around stage 3 and 4, followed by decay and completely decline by stage 7. The city having a very solid fortifications with the exterior wall being several metres thick, and is divided into the citadel, middle town and lower town. There are numerous of unsolved questions which the guide had tried helping us navigate them. The philosophy of water preservation and the fact that this place has the world's largest ancient step well, speaks volumes about the life and ecology of the place in the past.

Mr. Jamal had been kind enough to put up with us and our questions. He had in return just asked us for only one favour, a favour asking us to write a letter from the ministry of tourism to the archaeological department. According to him, a concerned letter from the ministry would put the archaeological dept into pressure for giving a required attention to the site. There was rush of emotions, empathising the guide for the site was like his own son. A son who was helped in getting excavated by Jamal, who saw the developments of excavation and now witnessing the dearth of maintenance.

Promising to try and give my 100% in helping out this man, and mentally noting down what all should be mentioned in the official letter, we come out of the site.

Packed ourselves for our way back to Bhuj - the main city, we leave the site of excavated with too many things to ponder on. The oncoming 4-6 hours journey had loads of things in it store which is now sealed into the box of what happens in the journey stays in the journey. A Journey of crossing the white desert, crossing the speed, crossing the time, and crossing our hearts we moved forward.

Visit Dholavira to see White Rann (even in September-October)

A journey now when I look back had so much to learn, learn to realise that momentary rush of emotions and empathy makes one a very impulsive being. Which makes me wonder now as I sit down to write, did I really go to a place of discovery to discover myself?

Did I? 

Another unsolved question! 

Flight to Chang La

Cold September, 7 o’clock in the morning. This was my third visit to Pangong Tso. I stayed at Spangmik where the crowd was thin and the lake was three yards away. After a smooth ride from Leh yesterday (no streams, no snow, less traffic), I had to cross Chang La once again to reach back to Leh. Chang La, whose altitude is higher than Khardung La, was waiting for me, with snow covered roads. Yea, it snowed yesterday night.

A Typical Day at Changla after snow. Army clears the snow pretty fast.

Cold weather had reduced my appetite and I did not feel like eating before the ride. I checked fuel in my bike and it was little less than 4 liters. I have to cover 120 kilometers to reach a petrol pump.

Obstacles even before I kick started. Half hour had passed. I wanted to stay ahead of traffic. Army trucks eat up petrol. And there is always a long procession of them.

Half past seven. Riding Gears on. Temperature was around 5 degrees. Thunderbird 350 was my beast.

I rode. The first 50kms was a cake walk. Zero traffic and well laid roads with less curves. But now, I come face to face with Changla. Even Khardung La has pretty decent roads. But, Chang La? Never.

And with snow, this high mountain pass poses a greater threat to me. Chang La towers at 5,360 metres (I like to quote altitude in metres, coz one can compare it with Everest’s 8848m altitude)

I have not stopped my beast till yet, and I don’t want to. Not till I reach Karu Petrol Pump.

Stones, snow, muddy roads have started to test me already. Suddenly my bike stopped. God knows what happened to it. And behind me was an oil tanker. Oh dear, I have stopped at an inclined road with a disadvantage, a huge rock in front of me. Luckily, the road is a little wide. Wide enough for the oil tanker to drive past me with no harm done.

Phew! A close one. Okay, now Self-start… self-staaaart… It always fails you when you need it most.

Kick-start and off I rode again. I drove past Changla without stopping. I had already paid a visit to Changla Baba yesterday and I got plenty of pictures at Changla from my previous rides. So, why bother?

Chang La photo from one of my earlier rides.

The snow has started melting from mountains and the streams are back on! And, the oncoming traffic is on as well! Time to manoeuvre through them patiently. But I am through with Changla and good roads greeted me again. Oncoming Riders, full of enthusiasm, riding to Pangong Tso greeted me with a friendly sign.

Hold on… a tight turn. Oncoming Qualis. Damn, he is not slowing down. I am sure we will cross each other at the bend. But, I see no space for me to ride. I slowed down, but I couldn't bring it below 25kmph. And he is also riding at full force. We met. He covered the entire road, threw me off balance and I am in dirt. I am sure that I am going to fall down. The entire thing happened within a matter of 3-4 seconds. I am still off balance. 

For once, I want the bike to fall down. Tired from riding for god knows how long and with no stop-overs, I wanted to let go. I left control to my bike's freewill, but with hands still on the bar.

Bike bumped on a rock, shot in the air, and landed back in the asphalt and resumed cruising.

What just happened?? I still couldn’t believe my eyes. I ought to have fractured an arm or a leg. But not a scratch. No wonder Royal Enfield has fan following. No other bike could’ve done that feat.

I don’t know whom to thank. I kissed the bike thank-you and resumed riding. I still didn’t stop till Serthi (Sakthi is the corrupted version by BRO). Infact, I was stopped at Serthi, by 4 tourists from Kashmir who were driving a Maruti 800 (old model). They wanted to visit Pangong Tso.

I said, not on a Maruti 800 bro. Especially not at full capacity.

I don’t know what happened to them either. I wish they hired bikes from Leh!

The One photo I took during the Ride

I quickly took a photo for I knew I will jot this experience down one day.

Stop-over was Two minutes max. I resumed riding with my bike already running on reserve-fuel.

Now, straight roads. I sped fast from Karu tri-junction to the petrol pump.

I made it!! And in record time. I reached Karu by 10:30am. 3 hours - 120kms in Ladakh. I hope it is some kind of a record.

Karu Petrol Pump. I have never been so excited to see a petrol pump. I still have that petrol pump owner’s contact number. 

Who knows when I might need it again.