Puncture, Nutcase and Losar

Puncture, Nutcase and Losar

After venturing out deep into Apple covered Kinnaur Valleys, the ride took us through Spiti. The change of landscape is akin to the one I had experienced from Ladakh to Lahaul. Although, unlike Ladakh, Spiti is still unexplored by tourists and was quaint in its own way.

 

Apple covered Kinnaur

In this ride, a Nutcase, an old friend from my hamlet, accompanied me. Racing through, we had experienced various varieties of Apples as we rode past districts of Kullu, Shimla, Kinnaur and finally landing in Spiti. We had already covered approximately 400 kms over the past three days.

I specifically wanted to ride Electra through these terrains, as it is my first choice while renting bikes.  Little did I know that rented bikes in Manali are worse for wear.

Yesterday night, we had stayed in Ki Gompa, to experience morning prayers the next day. Blissful experience as we sat and prayed along with the Buddhist monks early in the morning.

Tingmo at Ki Gompa

Although we enjoyed the experience, we had lost three hours and we had to ride to reach Manali the same day crossing the giant Kunzom La after visiting Chandratal as well. Ambitious, but doable.

Enroute, we found a traveler tempo stuck in slush with tourists stranded since morning. The Nutcase was eager to help, but it is going to eat out on our precious time.

Well, we jumped in. With some tricks, we were able to get the vehicle out of the mud. We resumed riding again. Since, we lost precious time and we were losing day light, we started racing though the mountains. My intuition told me something bad is about to happen.

It was 12pm. Just few kilometers left to reach Losar, a name that is going to haunt me for the rest of my life. Something was weird in Nutcase’s back tire. Damn, a puncture. We had to pull over immediately. Lucky for us, we had a spare tube and the puncture kit. No No No.. I will rephrase it.

4000 meters above sea level, we were trying to fix a flat tire with rudimentary tools and a broken bicycle pump. After replacing the tube, it took us half hour more to fill air in it with that stupid pump.

 

Nutcase and Electra

Just when we thought we had done it, the tube lost air again. To our utter dismay, the culprit was still stuck to the tire. A Nail. A big one. Just when all is lost, we met two Russian riders, who lent their spare tube to us. Rule Number One. In bike rides, say yes to any help lent when in distress situation. Although the tube did not fit, we took it. Just in case.

 

Losar - The name that haunts

The next option was to ride to Losar (4kms from current position) and hunt for help. I took my bike and rode fast to Losar only to find that the puncture guy is not in town. But he will reach Losar tonight. I rode back to where I left the Nutcase and his bike. Now we had to ride the punctured bike till Losar. It ain’t difficult. I have done it before. Being lightweight is always an advantage.

Nutcase rode my bike and I took his’. We reached Losar. We left the bikes in shade and went straight to the puncture guy’s house. We are going to wait outside his house till he returns.

Half past three. We were checking our wallets for money. We had enough petrol in the tank. But we had 200 rupees in hand. There are no ATMs till Manali. Anyways, 200 is more than enough to fix a puncture. Or so we thought.

                                     

Outside the puncture guy's house

We started hearing stories from the puncture guy’s wife on what an alcoholic he is. She further adds that he seldom comes home. Now, what are we doing waiting outside this guy’s house. We looked for liquor shops in the village. Lucky for us, there is just one. We waited there for some time. No trace of him though.

Quarter past five. It is getting dark now. We have to stay the night. Apparently, this guy works in GREF, BRO’s malignant brother. We were walking around the village enquiring about when the GREF truck will reach. We reached a police check post who asked us to wait with them, as the truck will have to cross the check post before entering the village. We befriended the constable on duty who worked out a plan to help us.

There it was! The GREF Truck! Finally.

We blocked the route and peeked into the truck. Constable hollered. “Puncture Wala hai kya”.

“Haan”.

Our eyes lit up. Although we could not get a good look at him, we were convinced that our sorrows are over. Truck sped past and stopped at the GREF office. We rushed to find the guy.

Alas, he has magically vanished. We enquired everyone in the truck. Now they say they have not seen him. Very convenient for alcoholics to skip help and get drunk.

We lost the guy. He didn’t go to his house as well. Nor he was in the liquor shop. It seems that the mountains have magically vaporized him.

Decision has been made. We are to stop the first pick-up truck early in the morning, load the bike and ride the other bike back to Manali.

With 200 rupees, there is not going to be a comfortable night stay. We had our blankets and riding jackets. We slept on the street in Losar in -5ºC weather conditions.

We made it to Manali the next day.

The truck that took the vehicle

Fin.